Stirrup Leathers and Spurs: How to Choose

Stirrup leathers and spurs sit at opposite ends of the riding gear spectrum. One is pure function, the other is pure communication. Both get overlooked by riders who'd rather spend on a flashy new bridle or a fresh set of breeches. But if your leathers stretch and your spurs are the wrong shape, nothing else in your kit will perform the way it should.

This guide walks through the practical side of choosing both, with a focus on what actually matters for Australian riders competing under EA rules. We'll cover sizing, materials, how to fit leathers correctly, the types of spurs available from our spurs and straps range, and the welfare considerations every rider should understand before picking up a pair.

If you're also in the market for stirrups themselves, our stirrups collection covers the full Freejump range. But this article is about the leathers that connect you to those stirrups, and the spurs that connect your leg to your horse.

What Size Stirrup Leathers Do I Need?

This is the question I get asked more than any other, and the answer is simpler than most tack shops make it sound. Stirrup leather lengths correspond to your inseam and your discipline. Here's the breakdown that works for most Australian riders:

• 105cm: Children under 12, or petite junior riders
• 115cm: Older children and small adults
• 125cm: Most adult women, standard length
• 135cm: Taller women and shorter men
• 145cm: Most adult men, or women with long legs
• 160cm: Tall riders, or anyone with a 34"+ inseam

The mistake I see constantly is buying leathers that are too short and then running the buckle at the wrong height. A buckle sitting on your thigh is uncomfortable and creates a pressure point. A buckle sitting below the knee where it belongs is what you want.

What I've found in practice is that dressage riders often go up a size from what they think they need. Longer leathers give you a longer leg position, and if you're riding dressage under dressage saddle pads and a deep-seated saddle, the extra length lets you drop your leg properly. Jumping riders can usually stick with their natural size.

One more thing: leather stretches. Buy them slightly shorter than you think you need, because they'll lengthen by a hole or two within the first few months. Synthetic leathers like the Freejump 4x6 don't stretch, which is one reason competition riders prefer them.

How to Put Stirrup Leathers on an English Saddle

It sounds basic, but I've seen plenty of riders thread their leathers the wrong way. The leather should run over the stirrup bar, not under it. The buckle end faces down toward the stirrup, and the tail of the leather tucks into the keeper.

Here's the correct sequence:

1. Lift the stirrup bar flap on your saddle
2. Thread the buckle end of the leather over the bar from the outside
3. Pull it through so the buckle sits just below the bar
4. Attach the stirrup to the bottom of the leather
5. Tuck the excess tail through the keeper loop

The reality is that most riders do this once and forget about it. But if your leathers are twisted, the buckle can sit sideways and create uneven pressure. Check them every time you tack up, especially if you've recently adjusted the length.

A common mistake I see at every show: riders who swap between saddles but keep the same leathers. Different saddles have different stirrup bar positions. Your leathers might be the right length on your dressage saddle but too short on your jumping saddle. Measure for each saddle if you compete across disciplines.

Best Stirrup Leathers for Dressage vs Jumping

The requirements for dressage and jumping leathers are different, and the material you choose affects feel, durability, and maintenance. Here's how the options stack up:

Feature	Dressage	Jumping
Length	135-160cm (longer leg)	125-145cm (shorter leg)
Width	Narrower (comfort on long contact)	Wider (stability over fences)
Material preference	Leather for feel	Synthetic for zero stretch
Buckle type	Traditional pin buckle	Freejump 4x6 system or traditional

For dressage, I'd lean toward traditional leather. The feel through your leg matters in dressage more than any other discipline, and a quality leather strap gives you better contact. The Jump'In Plunged Calfskin leathers at $263.59 are a solid choice. The calfskin is soft enough to feel the saddle, and the plunged buckle design keeps the profile thin against your leg.

For jumping, the Freejump 4x6 system is hard to beat. At $379, they're not cheap, but they don't stretch, they're lighter than traditional leather, and the 4x6 webbing system distributes pressure evenly. I've seen riders scope 1.20m courses in these without the leather shifting or creating a pressure point. If you're jumping regularly, these are the ones to get.

If budget is the deciding factor, the Jump'In Leather Straps at $215.47 offer the same French craftsmanship at a lower price point. They're a plain leather strap without the plunged buckle, so there's a slightly bulkier profile, but the quality is there. For riders starting out or those who don't compete at a high level, these are plenty.

And at the entry level, the Lady Godiva Comfort Deluxe at $50 is a budget option for casual riders or those with a spare set on a second saddle. Only two left in stock at time of writing, so don't hang about if you need a pair.

Types of Spurs for Horses

Spurs are not created equal, and the type you choose should match your horse, your discipline, and your leg length. Under EA rules effective 1 January 2026, only smooth rowels are permitted in dressage. Serrated rowels are banned. In eventing, rowels must rotate freely and be round and smooth, with no tines. Pony riders cannot use rowel spurs at all.

Here are the main types available, using the Freejump SPUR'ONE range as our reference point. These are designed by Pininfarina (the Italian design house behind Ferrari), with carbon fibre bodies and Elastollan overmolding. They're made in France.

• Round End: The mildest option. A smooth, rounded tip with no rowel. Good for sensitive horses or riders with a strong leg. $120 AUD, 2 in stock.
• Prince of Wales (25mm): A mild rowel with a small diameter. The most common choice for general riding and lower-level competition. $140 AUD, 1 in stock.
• Hammer (25mm): A flat, hammer-shaped end. More directional pressure than a rowel. Useful for horses that respond to a clear, localised aid. $140 AUD, 1 in stock.
• Extra Long: Longer shank for riders with short legs on tall horses. The reach means you don't have to twist your ankle to make contact. $160 AUD, 1 in stock.
• Disk: The largest surface area, distributing pressure over a wider zone. Currently out of stock at $175 AUD.

Dummy spurs and Impulse spurs are also EA-legal. Dummy spurs have no rowel at all, just a smooth knob. They're the gentlest option and are often used in pony club or by riders whose horses need only the lightest touch. The key distinction under EA rules is whether the rowel is smooth and freely rotating. If you're unsure, check the EA National Rules on the Equestrian Australia website before you compete.

How to Use Spurs on a Horse

Spurs are a refinement tool, not a go-faster button. What I've found in practice is that riders who need spurs the least use them the best. They're for fine-tuning a response that's already there, not for creating one that isn't.

Here's how to think about it: your leg aid should work without spurs first. If you're kicking to get a response, adding spurs just means you're kicking harder. The spur should turn a light aid into a precise one, not a heavy aid into an unbearable one.

The basic technique is a rotation of the heel inward and upward. You're not jabbing, you're nudging. The rowel (or rounded end) touches the horse's side briefly, then your heel drops back. The aid lasts less than a second. If you're holding the spur against the horse's side for more than a beat, you're using it wrong.

For riders with shorter legs on taller horses, the Extra Long SPUR'ONE at $160 solves the reach problem. I've seen riders practically dislocate their ankles trying to reach a 16.2hh horse's side with a standard shank. The longer shank lets you make contact without contorting your position.

One thing nobody tells you: your riding boots affect how your spurs sit. A stiff tall boot holds the spur in place better than a soft paddock boot with half chaps. If your spurs are slipping down your heel, it's probably your boots, not the spur straps.

Are Horse Spurs Cruel?

This is a fair question, and the honest answer is: spurs are only as kind as the rider using them. A well-placed aid with a smooth rowel is less invasive than a rider constantly kicking with a bare heel. The cruelty comes from poor hands, poor timing, and choosing a spur that's too sharp for the horse's sensitivity level.

The EA rules exist precisely to prevent the kind of spurs that cause harm. Serrated rowels, fixed rowels, tines, and sharp points are all banned because they can cut or bruise. What's permitted under the current rules is smooth, rotating, rounded contact. If you're competing under EA rules, you're already working within a framework designed to protect horse welfare.

For riders concerned about welfare, start with the mildest option. The Round End SPUR'ONE has no rowel at all. It's a smooth, rounded surface that applies pressure without any rotating contact. If your horse responds to it, there's no reason to go sharper. Many horses never need anything beyond this.

The reality is that most welfare issues with spurs come from riders who aren't honest about their own leg. If your leg is quiet and your timing is good, spurs are a communication tool. If your leg bounces and you grip with your heels to stay on, spurs become a weapon. Sort your seat out first, then add spurs. Not the other way around.

For riders looking to understand the full range, our saddles and saddle accessories collections include everything you need to complete your tack setup. And if you want to pair your new leathers with quality safety stirrups, the Freejump range is the one to look at.

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