Quick answer: Australian horses thrive on a diet based on good quality forage (hay or pasture), supplemented with grain only if needed for performance or weight gain. Most horses do well on 1.5–2% of their body weight in forage daily, plus access to fresh water and a mineral block. Climate, age, activity level and individual metabolism all affect feed requirements — what works for one horse won't work for another.
Feeding a horse properly is one of the most fundamental responsibilities of horse ownership, yet it's one of the most misunderstood. In Australia, we have unique advantages — our climate allows year-round grazing in many regions, and quality hay is relatively affordable — but we also face challenges like variable forage quality, seasonal pasture availability, and the harsh conditions that can make horses' metabolic demands unpredictable.
Whether you own a pony, a weekend hack or a competitive horse, the basics of horse nutrition remain the same: forage first, grain second, and always adapt to your individual horse's needs. This guide covers everything an Australian horse owner needs to know about horse nutrition and feeding, from pasture management to supplement strategies.
Let's dive in and make sure your horse is getting exactly what they need to stay healthy, energetic and content.
Good forage — fresh hay or quality pasture — is the foundation of every horse's diet and the single most important feeding decision you make.
Forage: The Foundation of Every Horse's Diet
Horses are natural grazers. Their digestive systems evolved to eat almost continuously throughout the day, processing plant material slowly and steadily. This is why forage — hay, pasture, or both — must form the bulk of every horse's diet, typically 70–100% of their daily intake by weight.
Pasture vs Hay
In Australia, pasture availability varies dramatically by region and season:
- Southern states (VIC, TAS, SA) — Cool-season grasses provide good grazing in winter and spring; summer can be dry and sparse, requiring hay supplementation.
- NSW, QLD — Warm-season grasses dominate; winter grazing is thinner, so hay is essential in colder months.
- WA — Mediterranean climate means pasture quality varies dramatically; reliable hay reserves are essential.
Quality pasture is ideal if available — it's fresher, more nutritious and cheaper than hay. But most Australian horse owners need hay to supplement pasture year-round, especially in dry seasons.
Hay Quality Matters
Not all hay is equal. Poor-quality hay — dusty, mouldy or over-mature — can cause respiratory problems and won't meet your horse's nutritional needs. Good hay should:
- Be dust-free — no visible mould or mildew; won't irritate airways
- Smell sweet — a pleasant, fresh, slightly earthy smell indicates good fermentation and storage
- Have colour — green-gold is ideal; brown or pale hay is past its prime
- Be soft and leafy — leaves contain more nutrition than stems; early-cut hay is richer than late-cut
Expect to pay $8–15 per bale for quality horse hay in Australia (prices vary by region and season). In drought years, prices spike — budget accordingly.
Grain and Concentrates: When, Why and How Much
Grain is not a food group horses need to eat — it's a tool. Use grain when:
- Your horse is losing weight despite access to good forage and pasture
- Your horse is in heavy work — competition, training, or daily riding — and needs extra calories
- Your horse is young, old or has special needs — growing foals, nursing mares, geriatric horses, and horses recovering from illness often benefit from concentrated nutrition
If your horse is a good weight on pasture and hay alone and isn't working hard, grain is unnecessary and can cause problems like colic, laminitis or behavioural issues.
Types of Grain and Concentrates
| Grain Type | Energy Level | Best For | Caution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oats | Moderate | General riding, everyday feeding | Can cause "oaty" behaviour in sensitive horses |
| Barley | Moderate to High | Performance, weight gain | Must be rolled or crushed; whole barley is poorly digested |
| Commercial pellets | Varies | Balanced nutrition, easy feeding | Quality varies widely; check ingredient list |
| Chaff or chop | Low | Weight maintenance, fibre bulk | Not energy-dense; must pair with other feeds |
| Sugar beet pulp | Moderate | Weight gain, digestive health | Must be soaked; don't use pelleted form |
Grain Feeding Safety
Horses have small stomachs. Feeding too much grain at once overwhelms their digestive system and can cause colic. Never feed more than 2–3 kg of grain in a single meal, and space meals at least 4 hours apart. A 500 kg horse eating 2 kg oats once a day is fine; the same horse eating 2 kg twice daily is at risk.
Proper feeding management — consistent meal times, measured portions, and good-quality ingredients — prevents digestive upset and keeps your horse in peak condition.
Water: The Overlooked Essential
A horse drinks 20–50 litres of water a day depending on climate, exercise, forage type and individual need. Dehydration is a silent killer — it causes colic, impaction, reduced performance and electrolyte imbalance.
In Australia's heat, especially in summer or northern climates, water consumption skyrockets. Provide:
- Clean water at all times — change troughs daily, check for algae or contamination
- Shade or cool water in hot weather — horses prefer cool water and drink more of it
- Extra electrolytes in summer — salt in feed (usually a pinch), and electrolyte paste after hard work or sweating
- Ice water, not icy — some horses won't drink very cold water; room-temperature or slightly cool is ideal
Monitor your horse's hydration by doing a pinch test: pinch the skin on the neck. It should snap back immediately. If skin stays tented, your horse is dehydrated — call your vet.
Supplements and Extras: What Your Horse Actually Needs
The supplement market is massive, glossy and confusing. Here's the truth: most healthy horses on good forage and quality grain don't need supplements. That said, some horses benefit from targeted additions:
Essential Supplements for Australian Horses
- Salt block (mineral) — essential in hot climates; horses sweat out electrolytes and need to replace sodium and potassium
- Quality mineral mix — if your hay is low in calcium or phosphorus (common in Australian pasture), a mineral supplement keeps balance
- Joint support — older horses or performance horses often benefit from glucosamine, chondroitin or MSM
- Hoof support — biotin and methionine can improve hoof quality, though results take months
- Probiotics — useful after antibiotics or during stress; choose a reputable brand with proven CFU counts
Fancy supplements like adaptogens, nootropics or herbal blends are mostly marketing. Stick to the basics: forage, clean water, salt and minerals.
Feeding Strategies for Different Life Stages
| Life Stage | Daily Forage | Grain/Concentrate | Key Nutrients |
|---|---|---|---|
| Foal (weaning to 12 months) | Good pasture + creep-fed grain | 1–1.5 kg foal pellets daily | Protein, calcium, phosphorus, lysine |
| Young horse (1–3 years) | 1.5–2% body weight forage | Maintenance pellets; increase if starting work | Balanced calcium/phosphorus, protein for growth |
| Adult maintenance | 1.5–2% body weight forage | Grain only if needed for weight | Minerals, vitamins, salt |
| Performance/competition | 1.5% body weight forage | 2–4 kg grain daily, split into meals | Carbs for energy, electrolytes, protein |
| Geriatric (15+ years) | Soft forage or chop if dentition poor | Senior pellets; soften with water | Digestible protein, vitamin E, joint support |
Common Feeding Mistakes to Avoid
- Overfeeding grain — the #1 cause of colic and laminitis. Start with small amounts and increase only if weight drops.
- Feeding mouldy or dusty hay — causes respiratory disease and digestive upset. Always inspect before buying.
- Changing feed suddenly — horses have delicate gut bacteria. Switch feeds over 10–14 days, mixing old and new.
- Ignoring individual needs — what works for your neighbour's horse may be wrong for yours. Watch your horse's condition closely.
- Skipping minerals and salt in summer — Australian heat depletes electrolytes fast. Don't skip this in hot months.
Pro tip: Keep a feeding log for a month — note your horse's weight, condition, energy level, and any digestive issues alongside exactly what you fed. This data is invaluable. If problems arise, your vet can see the pattern and diagnose faster.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to feed a horse in Australia per year?
Expect $1,200–2,500 annually for forage and basic minerals, depending on hay prices and location. Add another $500–1,500 if you feed grain or performance supplements. Drought years cost more.
Can horses eat grass clippings from a lawn mower?
No. Grass clippings ferment and cause impaction colic. Lawn clippings are dangerous. Always provide dry hay or let them graze fresh grass in a paddock instead.
Is a salt block enough, or do horses need loose salt?
A salt block is a good start, but loose salt mixed into grain or feed ensures consistent intake. In Australian heat, consider both — block access plus 1–2 tablespoons of salt in their feed during summer.
What's the best grain for a horse in work?
Oats or a quality performance pellet formulated for your horse's level of work. Avoid excessive whole grains — most need to be rolled or crushed to be digested properly. Ask your feedstore for recommendations for your specific horse.
How do I know if my horse is overweight?
Use a body condition score (1–9 scale; ideal is 5–6). You should feel ribs easily but not see them prominently; a visible waist is ideal. If you can't feel ribs or your horse has a cresty neck, reduce feed and increase exercise.
Should I feed my horse before or after riding?
Small meals before, but never large amounts. Avoid riding hard within 1–2 hours of a large feed to prevent colic. A light snack (handful of hay) is fine; full meals should come after the ride is done and the horse has cooled down.
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